Wine-dark lips at Viktor & Rolf A/W12-13

By  August 28, 2012

Viktor & Rolf A/W12-13 catwalk beautyWhile many designers presented a version of the iconic sixties cat eye/nude lip look at their A/W 12-13 catwalk shows, an equal number favoured a drastically different aesthetic – namely glamorously updated gothic make-up.

At Viktor & Rolf, Pat McGrath created a sensuous, dramatic face with dark wine-stained purplish-red lips that gleamed thanks to a top coat of Dolce & Gabbana Ultra Shine lipgloss in Acqua (£21, harrods.com).

Hair was sleek, shiny and shaped into Veronica Lake-style waves that cascaded over one shoulder adding a heightened sense of drama and decadence to the overall look. This luxurious take on goth beauty complemented the clothes – which were dark, dangerous and feline – perfectly.

As at many other shows, skin was ‘paled out’ to achieve a modern version of the classic goth’s ghostly pallor (think Siouxie Sioux, the Cure’s Robert Smith, Marilyn Manson and Fairuza Balk in The Craft). There wasn’t a hint of blusher or the slightest bit of contouring in sight, just perfectly flawless skin providing a beautiful blank canvas for those glossy lips.

Even mascara was abandoned – less scary than you’d think (it’s going to take a lot to persuade us to put the mascara wand down) because lashes were still curled to open up the eye. Eyelids looked nude with a light covering of a silky eyeshadow – we love Stila’s sheer shadows in Espresso, Coco and Java. Brows were filled in with pencil or powder and shaped with coloured eyebrow mascara.

Pat christened it ‘dark romance’ and this look, with the bloodstained lips that reminded us of Chanel’s legendary Rouge Noir nail polish, is an intensely seductive one.

To achieve a version of this noirish look yourself, rummage around in your make-up bag until you find the darkest lipstick you possess, then apply and layer on different shades of purple and red until you’ve created a custom colour that suits you. Finish with a coat of clear lipgloss, brush up your brows, curl your lashes and that’s it!