While many designers presented a version of the iconic sixties cat eye/nude lip look at their A/W 12-13 catwalk shows, an equal number favoured a drastically different aesthetic – namely glamorously updated gothic make-up.
At Viktor & Rolf, Pat McGrath created a sensuous, dramatic face with dark wine-stained purplish-red lips that gleamed thanks to a top coat of Dolce & Gabbana Ultra Shine lipgloss in Acqua (£21, harrods.com).
Hair was sleek, shiny and shaped into Veronica Lake-style waves that cascaded over one shoulder adding a heightened sense of drama and decadence to the overall look. This luxurious take on goth beauty complemented the clothes – which were dark, dangerous and feline – perfectly.
As at many other shows, skin was ‘paled out’ to achieve a modern version of the classic goth’s ghostly pallor (think Siouxie Sioux, the Cure’s Robert Smith, Marilyn Manson and Fairuza Balk in The Craft). There wasn’t a hint of blusher or the slightest bit of contouring in sight, just perfectly flawless skin providing a beautiful blank canvas for those glossy lips.
Even mascara was abandoned – less scary than you’d think (it’s going to take a lot to persuade us to put the mascara wand down) because lashes were still curled to open up the eye. Eyelids looked nude with a light covering of a silky eyeshadow – we love Stila’s sheer shadows in Espresso, Coco and Java. Brows were filled in with pencil or powder and shaped with coloured eyebrow mascara.
To achieve a version of this noirish look yourself, rummage around in your make-up bag until you find the darkest lipstick you possess, then apply and layer on different shades of purple and red until you’ve created a custom colour that suits you. Finish with a coat of clear lipgloss, brush up your brows, curl your lashes and that’s it!