PFW S/S13: Balmain

Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13 Balmain SS13
By Kristin Knox September 28, 2012
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Balmain SS13
Bad boy Olivier Rousteing hit his true big shouldered Balmain-stride this afternoon. Showing in an intimate venue, the girls' attitude overwhelmed more than any aspect of the show's production, oozing sex appeal and a bad in the best possible way kind of attitude. Where so many designers this season have looked to the swinging subtleties of the sixties as the decade du jour, Rousteing kept on plowing ahead with Pierre's house's affinity for the big and brashness of the 1980's. A black and white oversized houndstooth skinny suit with strong embroidered shoulders opened the show packing a kind of in your face fashion punch that only a house like Balmain can pull off with a unique panache. Slouchy leather trousers and wrapped white silk tops revealing just a few inches of skin, body-conscious mini dresses were sliced open to the navel whilst tactile treatment vis a vis perforation, heavy tooling and embellishment characterised the house's signature armored mini dresses. Shoulders on power black suiting were exaggerated almost to the point of pastiche, at times, we bordered on the actual 80's rather than a delightful throwback couched in the recession-strapped restraint of 2013. A dizzying black and yellow trompe l'oeil print splashed across balloon trousers and a relaxed jacket to match truly made editors sit up in their seat and take notice. Leather was treated to the point of compulsion, intricately laser cut in cream and black to create a print-like texture in three piece separates (jacket, trouser and bandeau--shirts are so Fall 2012) for a tactile all-over effect. Denim made a clean cut appearance, washed in a deep indigo, without so much as a fray in sight, perhaps constituting, for all the bells and embellished whistles of the collection, some of its most endearing looks. Yes, Balmain is all about the brash, and has been ever since it's big big-shouldered comeback five years hence. But nowadays, with zeitgeists moving on and creative directors rising and falling from house's helms like peplum skirts shaking down a runway, it is when that quintessentially Balmain brashness is tempered in sartorialism and exuded vis a vis attitude that things start to get interesting.
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