MFW S/S13: Gucci

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By Kristin Knox September 20, 2012
Gucci S/S13: Look 1
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Taking a stroll through a kind of sixties repertoire, Frida Giannini streamlined the elegance of the decade, creating a Spring 2013 collection that she described as a "portraits of aristocratic women." The iconic photography of Richard Avedon and Gian Paolo Barbieri served as her starting point and the show was opened by hot pink mod suiting with belled tulip sleeves. Large wave-like cascaded down long, lean lines, elongating the body and effecting a look somewhere between surrealist flamenco and chic crustacean. The silhouettes were rather simple, the textiles punchy of colour but otherwise straightforward, the aesthetic therefore one of minimalism, often accented with statement coral and crystal necklaces, it had an aura of the organically authentic about it.Waists were cinched at times, dresses and separates fluid and feminines, the occasional wayward ruffle wrapped around sleeves like the inside of a conch shell as the whites and pinks opened up into an aria of cobalt blues and varying gradients of freen. There were flashes of skin through cutouts and sinuous lines that Giannini described as "aristographic." There were tunics teamed with linear outerwear, shirt-jackets worn with softly cut trousers and mini dresses cut with a cocoon shape or billowing trapeze. Garments were mostly solid in colour and accented with show-stopping choker necklaces in a dazzling array of coral, turquoise and crystal.For cocktail, 60's shapes such as swinging minis and chauffeur dress coats were rendered in a lynx print or luxurious mustard suede with crocodile trim channeling a glamorous jet set of a bygone era. Then the lights went out and rainbow printed python pieces appeared with the most opulent of textures to signify that the Gucci evening in all its luxurious glory was upon us. The show closed with a return to the minimal elegance with which it began, Giannini made the point that casual can be chicest on the red carpet as black silk separates with fluttering open back ruffle or a kind of large fishnet neckline were interspersed amongst the floor sweeping gowns rendered in either block black or stark white. The ultimate minimal accessory, the gowns were paired with clear, plexiglass carved clutches.
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