PFW S/S13: Miu Miu

By  October 04, 2012

Though it does not officially hold the closing slot in the Paris Fashion Week calendar and hence month-long sojourn (that everyone-is-already-checking-in-at-Charles-du-Galle honor falls this season to South Korean designer Lie Sang Bong), nor does Madame Miuccia herself hold a passeport Francais, the Miu Miu show nonethelss acts, season in, season out like a farewell assembly. Editors, buyers, blogger and friends strut their last on the sidewalks before street style photographers allow pedestrian activity to resume as normal, enough goodbye-see-you-next-season air kisses to turn the arms of Lagerfeld’s wind turbines at yesterday’s Chanel show and one last chance to air out that final fashion week outfit (or succumb to the horror of an end-of-season-suitcase repeat). Thus it was that this afternoon Madame Prada decided to make it official by staging her show at the United Nations General Assembly. All key international players present and accounted for? Yes. Cameras, iPads and pens at the ready? Double yes. And so the closing proceeding that is Miu Miu began beneath the gathering Parisian clouds, led by fashion’s Italian ambassadress of chic.

It started out blissfully stark. Somber and respectful, as if not to trivialise the seriousness of the locale, the Miu Miu girl this season is perhaps the daughter of a stylish ambassadress. She raids her powerful mother’s closet for sophisticated staples, which are a little too big on her when she slips into them, yet she makes them her own by way of styling and accessories. Gone were the Peter Pan collars and kitschy accessories, we were a far cry from the “kawaii-zen” aesthetic piloted ten days ago in Milan at Prada mainline. The opening looks saw an almost wartime paring down of beautifully cut sapphire wool-silk blend sultry separates: not-too-form fitting pencil skirts worn with relaxed jackets and coats over white fluttering bralettes and pretty plain pumps. Then there came painted sprays of print across loose-fitting skirt suits, crumpled in finish yet polished by the presence of leather gloves. Speaking of leather, polished, patent versions of the stuff in muted dusk and white constituted a heavier take on summer separates whilst lightweight coats printed, solid and satin, billowed open robe-style clinching their role as the collection’s most emphasized if not slightly out of season garment.

As for accessories, remember the Prada fox fur stoles that, er, stole the hearts and accessory budgets of fashion aficionados circa Spring/Summer 2011? Miuccia Prada certainly does, as an even bigger and better returned to the runway of the second line awash in ikat prints. The slabs of fur were slung block-like, slung haphazardly over shoulders and added an element of old world glamour with a modern sensibility to each of the many outfits they accompanied. Bags were flat and envelope-style, a new shape, though perhaps not suitable for carrying much more than an iPad whilst footwear alternated between simple flat sandals and classic pumps in either elegant black or pretty pastels. Suffice it to say, by the time Miuccia took her bow and the assembly was dismissed, fashion’s road-weary diplomats were ready to return to their respective countries in happy concord that the assembly that has been Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 was as up to as chic a scratch as ever with Miu Miu last but certainly not least.