It was clear blue skies ahead for Stella McCartney this morning, and as soon as Karlie Kloss hit the runway in an opening look comprised of a brilliant blue asymmetrically constructed coat teamed with white trousers, the bleak weather of the Parisian morning dissolved entirely. In a show season that has seen more leather and fur than the contents of the sprawling contents of a Russian socialite, fashion’s most ethical designer once again managed to produce a collection devoid of any animal (by)products but still rife with pieces that will shoot straight to the top of Net-a-Porter’s “sold out” cache.
High hemlines at Stella McCartney A/W12-13
Stella McCartney A/W12-13
Baroque embellishments at Stella McCartney A/W12-13
Vibrant blue for A/W12-13 at Stella McCartney
A palette, similar to fellow Brit and ex-Chloe helsmwoman Phoebe Philo, who showed yesterday, Stella stuck to stark white, deep cobalt blue and black. Where many of her peers this season have focused on innovative treatments of skins and pelts, Stella took the same hands-on microscopic approach to her technique with textile. Silk crepe de chine was embossed with a quasi-Victorian, quasi-Baroque floral riff and layered with fluttering chiffon.
In true Stella form, the looks toggled back and forth between masculine and feminine, relaxed yet architectural suiting and acutely proportioned dresses recreating the body-morphing magic of last season’s “contrast” scuba dress are sure to be a celeb favourite on a red carpet near you.