PFW A/W 12-13: Givenchy

By  March 05, 2012

Hip hop/ R&B heavyweights Kanye West, P. Diddy, Alicia Keys and Cassie (sorry Hubert, the days of Hepburn as muse are, it would seem, no longer) turned out in force for Riccardo Tisci‘s Givenchy‘s show this evening in Paris. Staged in a gym with no heat–a far cry from last season’s swelter– editors and celebrities alike were literally kept waiting in the cold. But when the first look materialized, a sharply tailored black jacket paired with tiny black leather gym shorts and subtly equestrian-inspired over the knee boots, the crowd forgot the frost and began to realise that Tisci’s crystallized undead, chic for all eternity, were creatures eschewing all warmth and light. Oh how the fash pack loves it when Riccardo indulges his dark side.

The opening look was followed by an encore of skin tight leather, polished almost to the point of PVC, the models’ makeup ghoulishly undead, a refreshing take on the clean, minimalist faces we’ve been seeing sauntering up and down runways since New York. LBD’s a la True Blood soon gave way to immaculate tailoring, two and tri-textured overcoats, short sleeves on wide jackets paired with shirts offering an avant garde kimono silhouette crafted of layers.

After the opening black movement, color worked its way into the collection in the form of brown leathers and blood reds along with the subtlest of equestrian themes, including a particularly covetable pair of slouchy paper thin leather trousers in sanguine. The equine mood was subtle and picked up on some of the Spanish stallion motifs shown last night at Loewe, in the magnificence of the browns, the richness of the leather and the finery of the detailing thereof. To cement the Spanish influence, modern versions of the Spanish sartorial classics materialized, somewhere halfway between flamenco and flapper, elaborately embroidered slip dresses in bright colors cinched with contrasting colored belts (tangerine with plum, violet with coral and so on).

Blood reds sat with the subtlest of equestrian themes

The texture play was a key throughout the collection

Thigh-high leather boots were nothing but killer

Riccardo indulged his dark side