PFW A/W 12-13: Celine

By  March 05, 2012

Picking up where she left off with the Pre-Fall, Phoebe Philo, queen of the silhouette at reigning cult brand Celine (the presentation’s tight exclusivity makes Tom Ford’s gatherings look like public free-for-all’s), continued to experiment with more generous cuts. Always a bellweather for the trends to come six months from now, while her peers this season looked to a primly tailored aesthetic, Philo went oversized with her silhouettes, leaving no garment unexaggerated, from knitted jumpers with rounded and exaggerated shoulders to cascading zip adorned bottle-shape silk trousers and, most importantly, supersized wool overcoats, most notably in a brilliant sapphire.

A native Londoner, a preemptive sense of patriotism circa the forthcoming 2012 games was subtly commingled with the minimalist aesthetic, racing stripes in Underground orange, Piccadilly blue and Union Jack red, Philo’s blocked color sartorial endorsement of the London Games. There was also a sporty underpinning in the form of loose shapes in stark white nodding to athlete’s track suits, the zippers adorning trousers, tops and more imbued with a kind of athletic utilitarianism cum fashion edge. Go team!

Coats came supersized in chalky colours

White square toe boots completed an all leather look

Lapels were shown a large dose of love through contrasting textures

Zips added structural lines to tops