After the true A.D (accessory-overdose) that was the phenom of the glitter and suede peep toe boot adorning pretty much every other pair of fash pack feet all the way from New York to Paris, Miuccia had to give us something to write home (and obsessively covet) yet again.
Whereas the Prada woman who walked a week and a half ago back in Milan was dunked in Betty Draper sugary goodness with a healthy side of Marilyn Monroe, the Miu Miu girl is her sophisticated mother’s rebellious and edgy daughter, sticking to a feminine wardrobe of figure hugging pencil skirts, fitted blazers and bustier tops, but rendering her looks in darker, muted tones (grey, burgundy, black) and more sculpted, daring shapes.
Applique lace in deep tones, including a coral and a mustard (no pastels for Miu Miu SS12) softened the first few opening looks and was also rendered in a fantastic patchwork worked across skirts and coats, the overlay adding an element of sophistication and girliness at the same time. Robust satins giving off a kind of Victoriana vibe closed the show, of the sort of heavy-handed fabric that only Miuccia can make look young, light (figuratively speaking) and fun. As for the footwear, metallic mules in muted lavender and fleur des lis printed boots spoke to that aesthetic of “pretty-ugly,” wherein, at first sight, beholding the thing leaves one a bit puzzled as to their “cool” factor, but come February and the Autumn/Winter 2012 shows, like the glitter booties that came before them, their fashion kudos appeal will be relentless.