One of the most anticipated shows of the week (which sees editors frantically scribbling down not editorial notes, but personal shopping lsits) Celine‘s Phoebe Philo kept things chic and clean for Spring Summer 2012. Striking a discord with the rampant trends for explosive prints and heavy handed embellishments seen this season on runways from New York to London and Milan, minimalist yet architectural, Celine was chic Parisian perfection.
Voluminous pieces in monochromes and the brand’s beloved neutrals, Philo played with proportion, innovative cuts updating classic tailoring, particularly where trousers are concerned being one of the house’s strongest assets since her ascent to its creative throne. Slacks were relaxed, rendered in a gunmetal metallic twill with a discreet black and white piping down the side seam or cut wide and cropped in flowing silks trimmed with satin in black, cream and emerald.
There were oversized sleeves on trenches, crisp white shirts, deconstructed lightweight blazers perfect for all the year round, one or two lightweight leather tees and lush burgundy suiting with just a tinge of Edwardian influence in the nipped waist and rounded sculptural silhouettes. The Celine woman is the ultimate sophisticate, yet with a distinct sense of fashion flare that is always more prescient in dictating trends for seasons to come than bang on current zeitgeist. Chunky maryjane platform shoes in bordeaux and black gave the otherwise very grown up looks a more youthful appeal, proving yet again that Celine, in the hands of Phoebe Philo, is the ultimate brand for chic women of any age.