NYFW S/S13: Theyskens’ Theory

By  September 11, 2012

It’s a good season to be Olivier Theysken. As the sartorial pendulum swings away from the excess of print, embellishment and colour that has dominated runways for several seasons now, Theysken’s line for Theory can at last bask in the glory of its longstanding simplicity. Black, finally, is allowed to be the new black once again. The show opened with a consortium of fashion’s favourite non-hue hue, showing relaxed suiting and separates, cleanly styled and crisply cut. Chic pant suits and two-button coat dresses upped the ante on the relaxed tailoring trend fast emerging for Spring 2013. After a handful of looks, a deep midnight blue crept into the palette to play against the black, creating depth through shades of darkness–a blue parka thrown over a black tee and leather mini skirt ensemble, for instance.

Theyskens Theory S/S13

Theyskens Theory S/S13

As we progressed, white debuted in the collection manifesting in loose yet demure silk suiting, trousers that hit the ankle in just the right place and subtly yet strongly crafted shoulders. For evening, iridescent pailletes made an appearance, twinkling on sheath mini dresses, three-quarter length cardigans and one dazzling shimmering oyster coat dress. The final look echoed the first, a straightforward double breasted suit upgraded from daytime crepe de chine to an elegant iridescent satin for evening. Though Theyskens’ Theory has always marched to a well-tailored and aesthetically simple drum, in season’s past, it’s felt underplayed and even uninspiring. Today, it felt just right.