No one in New York knows how to throw a collection curve ball quite like Marc Jacobs. Gone was the over-the-top excess of last season and the season before and the one before that, last night, M.J. stripped it all down. And as if to make sure that point was conveyed right off the bat, the first girl appeared in the spotlight at the end of the cavernous runway space in nothing but a t-shirt with a vertically striped bar-code-esque print and her pants challenging the crowd: scan me if you dare.
From there, we dove into a mod mood, a Willy Wonka-ish world of wondrous trompe l’oeil stripes where shirts and trousers are optional. Pants, it seems, are among this spring’s most minimal fashion statements. Coats were worn over plain black bodies and lady-like skirt suits had their jackets unbuttoned to reveal the not-so-ladylike bare skin below.
Willy Wonka style at Marc Jacobs S/S13
Marc Jacobs S/S13
The stripe then came under the microscope, Jacobs went from horizontal to vertical before finally succumbing to the psychedelic swirl.There were ultra ultra mini dresses (pants just barely on display) and version after version of three-quarter length coat and pencil skirt ensembles, all turned out in variations of stripe in white and red, red and black, black and white and so on.
Without a doubt, the collection’s strongest point was the evening-wear. Groovy high-necked dresses printed with large spiraling stripes straight out of Andy Warhol’s factory beleaguered close cropped do’s and lightweight natural makeup, suggesting a new idiom of nighttime chic. And a glorious parade of sequined dresses beaded into optical submission with shredded floor-length skirts closed the show with such pizazz Instagram probably buckled from the surge of fashionista’s rushing to apply to coolest filter to the intricately patterned gowns.