NYFW S/S13: Donna Karan

By  September 12, 2012

Entitled “Sunrise, Sunset,” Donna Karan‘s eponymous mainline collection was a tour du force in a more subdued and sophisticated kind of elegance, channeling a 1950′s prettiness imbued with an ethereal modernity. Kimora Lee Simmons and Ashley Greene made up the celebrity quota for the front row, presenting a message across a united front that Donna Karan is a line that appeals to a wide range of women’s style sensibilities at different ends of the age spectrum.

Donna Karan SS13

Donna Karan SS13

Donna Karan SS13

Starting with the first hints of dawn, lightweight bell-skirted dresses teamed with little cropped jackets and loosely draped dresses in linen captured the pureness of morning’s first light. Silhouettes juxtaposed fluidity and structure, a liquid satin draped tunic or sheer low-cut dress in filmy chiffon were offset by tucked and folded skirts of rigid linen that held their shape away from the models’ bodies. The pearly shades soon gave way to the first whisper of blue sky, as silk shirt dresses and flowing skirts appeared in an exquisitely iridescent shade of a pale blue and as day broke, so did texture and tactile treatment of fabric. Spindly cobweb like dresses revealed tantalizing glimpses of flesh while ostrich feather trimmed A-line coats concealed.

Day soon gave way to dusk as the blues deepened to take on the richness of the spectrum of twilight, not merely one blue, but countless shades blended with greys and violets to create the illusion of texture using only colour. Sunset then exploded into full glory, with vibrant golds, hushed pinks and the twinkle of paillettes haphazardly sprinkled across spiral tunics and floor-sweeping evening gowns–it was like Donna had wrapped the girls in the first twinkle of stars in the early evening sky. Night at last fell, closing the collection with three beautifully cut black gowns whose effortless elegance cinched the deal: Donna Karan, when it comes to dresses in particular, means graceful business from dusk til dawn and all the day in between.