Francisco Costa is a true master of his craft, managing season after season to impress with his innovative approach to fabric whilst maintaining an inherent simplicity of aesthetic about his collections. From what appears, from a distance, to be a simple matte satin LBD or silk organza jacket, on second glance close enough to beleaguer the use of a microscope, something truly wonderful is at work.
Seductive black dresses layered over peeking conical bras that even Madonna now into her 50′s could chicly sport opened the show, highlighting the importance of the juxtaposition of soft and hard within this collection. Seams on the shifts, skirts and jackets that followed were all rounded, revealing an expertise at pattern cutting often overlooked on the runways of New York but off set with angular puckers of fabric or the omnipresent black conical bras. There were gazar shorts of black basket weave cinched with polished calf belts, bounded mesh skirts, slippery putty silk and black grain de poudre bustiers reigned into the body with zip fronts.
Floating garments in lightweight fabrics were trapped in corseted cages of taut black skin that seemed to creep over the dresses against their will, slightly sinister in the best possible way. Structured peplums sat atop stiff canvas moulded into dresses that sculpted the body in new, angular ways. Faceted gold and snake heels were the only touch of flashy opulence, the richness of the collection lying in the highly wrought nature of the fabrics.
Emma Stone and Diane Kruger, ever the loyal Calvin girls, kept it cool in the front row, proving that when it comes to keeping it minimally chic amongst Hollywood’s premier fashion plates, Calvin Klein is still the New York brand to beat.