The response to Bill Clinton’s speech at last week’s Democratic National Convention may have best summed up the trend of the sartorial season: things were better when that grey-haired guy was in office. As times show no sign of getting any less hard, there is undeniably a nostalgia for the nineties in the air, now even fashion’s got the bug. And Phillip Lim, one of New York’s leading zeitgeist-setters, has definitely been bitten. Except, where some designers have manifested their 90′s nostalgia with a marked good old fashioned return to minimalism, Mr. Lim has flocked to the opposite end of the spectrum, the glory days of excess grunge, excess florals and, well, all the other excess trappings that come with times of unprecedented economic growth and prosperity. You remember that luxury, don’t you–the luxury of playtime?
Phillip Lim S/313
And play he did, his runway space decked out like some sort of futuristic garden of optimistic delights. His girls, their eyes coated with no less than ten applications of mascara, emerged clad in an array of floral and plaid patterned dresses and separates all layered on top of one another for a voluminous effect, of, well, a lot. But it’s energy was at it’s core a youthful one (I daresay the hot pink suede overalls have an expiration date of age 23). There were tees reading “I heart Nueva York,” checks straight from Clueless’ Cher’s closet, zipped motorcycle jackets, PVC short and bandeau ensembles and so much more. Though when the millennium dawned, all of us swore to burn the likes of all the latter, looking back on it from Spring 2013, would we turn up our noses if we had the chance to turn back the clock to 1993 and do it all over again? As if!