NYFW A/W11: Preen

By  February 15, 2011

The Clothes Whisperer reports from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York:

London duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen have at last hit their perfect stride for Mercedes-Benz NYFW, toeing the line between London overt-tongue-in-cheek fun creativity and sleek, polished commercial American-friendly pieces. Their collection for Autumn/Winter 2011 was a mishmosh of patchworks, prints, and, of course, their signature love of texture.

Daywear kicked off with arts n’ craftsy patchwork wool dresses, cardis, tops and skirts–the chicest of grandma’s quilts rendered in juicy neons and other brights, a nice shot of color after all the muted tones we’ve been seeing this season (yes, yes, pewter, it’s your turn in the spotlight).

Intricate mixes of strong violets, oranges and greens gave the complex and color blocked layered looks a sort of kaleidoscopic feel, and Preen affected their signature three-dimensional look without having to sculpt any actual fabric, the prints did the talking. But of course, their trademark waffle fabric also made an appearance, this season manifesting itself on sleeves or skirts, but not a single garment was rendered of the stuff in full.

The Preen girl then traded in her quilted day looks for some truly stunning eveningwear–the London fash pack will be drooling over these pieces. Hand beaded chiffon tees and dresses created the most stunning vision of mish-mosh glamour, and the same beading appeared on the high collars of jackets and coats. There’s just so much going on with these garments, the eye is not sure at first where to look, but as you step back and take the look in as a whole, like an Impressionist painting, all these individual components that appear to be random or a bit messy create a sublime and tactile effect.