NYFW A/W11: Jason Wu

By  February 12, 2011

The Clothes Whisperer reports from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York:

Yesterday, wunderkind Jason Wu did Madames Michelle and Marie (Obama and Antoinette, respectively) extremely proud. Wu cited the photography of Robert Polidori in his book “Parcours Museologique Revister,” a tome which visually chronicles the restoration of Versailles over a quarter decade as his inspiration.

The theme was palpable from the moment one put a foot inside the downtown venue, where derelict yet ornate chandeliers sat crooked on the ground and a runway of disjointed gilded antique mirrors snaked through the show space. The contrast of grandeur fallen into decay, yet only amplifying in beauty with the degradation (somehow,  a sense of the derelict is always accompanied by a romantic sentiment), translated into the collection of luxuriously embellished fabrics worked into Wu’s signature classic American sportswear.

The Baroque theme manifested itself in the decorative details adorning most garments, from colorful embroidered Swarovski applique shimmering on a delicate sheer top or body con shift, burned out ostrich feathers coating a baby doll shift (where are you, Anna dello Russo?) and lace detailing over royal blue skirts and delicate face veils. Standout pieces included a winter white lace trim coat teamed with a black lace skirt layered over a wool cigarette pant, an ivory silk sculpted dress with “falling leaf” lace embroidery, a black burn out ostrich feather capelet and a gold lace paillette embroidered gown. I think I need to stop myself there before I put you through the tedium of my verbally recounting each and every look.