Jenny Packham‘s FW12 collection was inspired by the femme fatale, the iconic heroine figure depicted in Film Noir. This genre of films in the early 40s was characterised by dark, moody lighting and even darker morals. A far cry from the previous SS12 collection, The Central Saint Martins alum called this collection dark and dangerous. Flowing silk chiffons give way to the heavy silk crepes, plunging necklines to sleeker silhouettes with slim sleeves and figure-hugging forms. Dangerous indeed, with most of the dresses being heavily embellished with studs, sequins, beads, and crystals.Dita von Tesse watched on from the front row as stunning dress after dress came down the runway. Slim fitted handmade gowns with a belted waists all beaded to perfection, followed by an all black full length grown with sharp shoulders and full beading on the arms were favourites. The collection would be perfect for the 40s Lauren Bacall, especially the Stanwyk silver gown with 3/4 length crystal sleeves teamed with peeptoe Louboutins and classic statement jewellery.
Backstage, Leonardo Mannetti styled the hair, backcombing it to perfection before rolling it up at the back into a hair-netted bum. The front section was rolled into the perfect victory roll, completing the look. Talia Sholbrook used Laura Mercier make-up to create the sexy Femme Fatale look, a dark red lip with an ever so slight smoked eye and highlighted cheekbones.
The Jenny Packham FW12 collection was strong and sexy, can’t wait to see some of these gowns on the red carpet!
Words by Cyrena Arnold