Stefano and Domenico are no doubt at their very best when they return to their roots, both sartorial and societal, and design with their hearts an ode to Sicily. Following on last year’s downsizing of second label D&G and this summer’s first, small yet assured step into the world of couture, it can be said that the ante has most certainly been upped at the Dolce & Gabbana mainline.
Spring Summer 2013 was a return to village life, the simpler side of Sicilian dwelling without the baroque trappings of Fall/Winter or the dangling pasta earrings of the spring before. Here was a troop of beautifully cut A-line, mid-calf dresses in wide, seaside stripes with pinwheel sleeves.
Charming map, fresco and stain glass window prints we screened onto flippant and full skirted dresses were paired with colourful woven flats (yes that’s right-flats at Dolce & Gabbana!) whilst woven raffia sack dresses complete with frayed hems were stamped ‘Sicilia’ in case anyone was missing the mark. Some girls tottered enormous wedges carved with floral motifs like you’d expect to find crumbling in a sunny villa somewhere or peeked out from beneath raffia conical hats.
In general, things were a lot less sexy and a lot more sweet, tapping into a reservoir of customer appeal . Evening, especially, stood out as there wasn’t a spot of leopard or lick of LBD in sight. Instead, in a remarkable display of craftsmanship, wicker sculpted corsets suspended over a tiny black body and caged crinolines dresses constituted the nighttime offerings. It was editorial rather an than red-carpet ready, and ended with a gasp-drawing floor-length wicker tutu overlaid with black tulle to close the show.
It was like an electric crossection of a village, tucked by a glistening seaside on a far corner of the Southern island, we were glimpsing the girls and the ladies from different walks of society and life emerging shrouded in the fantasy of sartorial nostalgia, almost a postcard from Fellini times. When the girls emerged en masse in 40′s style striped high waisted bloomer-bottomed swimwear for the finale, the writing on said postcard was crystal clear: ‘Sicilia: wish you were here! Love Stefano & Domenico.’ Given the thunderous applause that rocked Metropol when the dynamic duo took their bow whilst late September clouds gathered outside, it seems everyone else wished they were too.