Most improved of Milan aw12 goes to Just Cavalli, the brand today showed an evolved perspective that threatens to put their new collection on par with other formidable leaders of the Italian second label milieu, namely Miu Miu itself. The aesthetic was actually rather similar, girly silhouettes, pleating and paneling on trenches and jackets and of course the unmissable glitter shoes (for both him and her), swing dresses and chic metallic lame layered separates-the accessories in particular, tasselled box clutches and sparkly pink pumps, have ready-to-wait-list written all over them and are likely to win over a Miu Miu devotee or two. (just when you thought it was safe to stash away those glitter booties…)
There was, of course, a Cavalli point of difference (for the leopard die hards among us) and just because Roberto’s little label kicked up a contemporary notch, it doesn’t mean he forgot what the Cavalli name is all about. Styled amongst the prima donnas came rough cut layers of ocelot shrugged over skinny cheetah trousers or opulent fox furs wrapped around leopard minis with boning and footwear to match.
It seems these economic times, tough especially here in Italy, has forced designers to reassess the role of the diffusion line (D&G, for instance, took it’s final bow last season), and where in new York, diffusers like DKNY kept it commercial by playing it safe, in Milan, if just Cavalli is anything to go by, keeping it commercial means playing it covetable.
Animal prints reigned at Just Cavalli
Opulent furs worked with statement pants
It was go-go glitter where shoes were concerned
Pleating formed a key signature for Cavalli AW12