MFW A/W 12-13: Jil Sander

By  February 27, 2012

It ended with a standing ovation for Raf Simons, for whom, today’s Autumn/Winter 2012 show would be his last at the House of Jil Sander. It was a tearful goodbye for both audience and designer showman alike, who re-emerged after the thunderous applause of editors continued after he’d disappeared off the catwalk (normally editors are out like a shot before the finale is, well, final), re-emerging with visibly moist eyes. For his final collection (Simons has been at the helm since 2005 and Jil herself is set to return to the label henceforth, now that’s an ousting), it was as if Simons designed his own eulogy. A delicate floral motif set the stage, with beautiful arrangements greeting guests on arrival, and the opening looks, a succession of beautifully draped coats, a bouquet of subtle pale floral shades rather than obvious prints.

The petal-pretty palette of the opening soon gave way to cocoon and collarless in rose-red before descending into an elegant revision of the little black dress. Classic and elegant yet contemporary and youthful, thus has been the legacy of Raf Simons at Jil Sander and perhaps nowhere has this been more palpable than his final, enduring swan song.

Raf Simons says his goodbyes after another stellar collection

Silver dresses shimmered underneath

Rose-red coats married beauty with impact

The black dress made a late appearance

Cocoon and collarless was the look du jour