Backstage with MAC Cosmetics at Fashion East, Glam caught up with the three designers that make up this season’s line-up:
Claire Barrow’s S/S 13 collection took inspiration from the 50’s diner look, with make-up reflecting feminine and masculine aesthetics alike. Make-up artist Lucia Pica took us through the main inspiration behind the beauty looks for this season.
Inspired by John Waters film Cry Baby, models wore a variety of different looks, with smoky eyes and dark lips featuring alternatively. Glam particularly loved the bright pink lips seen on some models, and the use of clumpy mascara to reflect the overall feel of the collection.
Faces were kept fresh and young, with some shine added to keep skin looking fresh and luminous. Dirty Blonde fluid brow liner was used on lids, and helped to achieve a smoky eye.
The last leg of Mark Hampton’s Fashion East styling marathon, the hair for this collection was kept relatively free of volume, with a wig cap being used to flatten and reduce bounce. Inspiration followed the 80’s/50’s influence, with spray wax being used after styling to achieve shine.
This style was product heavy, with Mark using mousse and shampoo to prepare the hair and achieve the correct texture.
Glam loved the rockabilly influences used by the beauty team, and are heading straight home to perfect our own 80’s/50’s look. We might give the wig cap a miss though…
In homage to the bright colours and laid back vibes of summer, a youthful, natural look took centre stage at Ryan Lo. Pastels formed the main part of the colour palate, with pinks, yellows and greens all providing vibrant and colourful tones to the look. Make up was kept light, with the overall aesthetic being pretty and doll-like.
Make-up artist Ayami Nishimura gave us the inside track on how she achieved her look. Matte finishing was the order of the day, with shimmer being kept to a minimum. MAC paint stick was used on lids to achieve eye colour.
Glam can even give you an expert tip from Ayami, who told us that she finds colour is easier to control using MAC paint stick than with powders.
Lips were painted in orange, red and pink, with a sharply defined top lip. Cheeks were painted with pink blush, with most of the colour being located in the centre of the cheeks, graduating away to the edges of the face to achieve a doll-like effect.
Along with Maarten Van Der Horst and Claire Barrow, Mark Hampton was also the creative force behind the Ryan Lo hair team. Inspiration for his hair look was feminine, girly and simple. Due to the dramatic statements found in the SS/13 pieces, the eventual style was chosen to off-set the theatrical tones of the collection.
Hair was plaited and woven in to buns worn on the top of the head. Hair with hair prepped with dry shampoo so that hair was not fly away or frizzy.
Overall, a colourful, modern and fresh look. Roll on summer!
Maarten Van der Horst
On a sweltering Saturday morning at LFW, Glam arrived back stage at Fashion East and opened the door to a scene of suitably frantic fashion action.
In the middle of the mayhem, make-up artist Thomas de Kluyver filled Glam in on the inspiration and techniques behind creating Maarten Van der Horst’s S/S 13 look.
Inspiration came from the 80’s with hair and make-up designed to sit next to animal prints and an innovative Tesco print from the collection. After prepping skin with moisturiser, eye cream and lip balm, the skin was covered with a layer of Mineralize liquid foundation, and left powder-free.
Eye lids were coloured using coffee and ochre shades, and contouring was achieved using Shadester. Ochre cheek powder was used on lids, and Opulash Mascara created an 80’s inspired punk look. Eyes were completed with a coat of Lip Glass on lids to add shine and polish.
Hair was created by Mark Hampton, and drew on the same inspiration as the beauty look. A concealed French plait lead to an asymmetric, angular fringe. Spray wax was applied after styling to achieve shine.