Helping to close London Fashion Week with his first solo on schedule show, David Koma presented a cohesive collection that once again demonstrated his success with structure. Focussing ‘on the body as a canvas,’ Koma continued his foray with the fiercely fitting but this time with an Aztec twist.
Opening the show with a long-sleeve devoré dress the Central Saint Martin’s graduate immediately had our attention. Was it the seamless merger of skin and fabric? Or maybe the leather peplum hurling around? Both executed Koma’s body conscious aesthetic to maximum effect.
Unrelenting with devoré, trousers fell from the waist to the floor- sky high Alain Quilici heels added the extra inches- before continuing its success with dresses. At times this use of fabric made it appear the Polynesian inspired designs had been painted onto the skin.
As for colours, the pure white palette that opened gave way to flashes of fluro pink, turquoise and canary yellow before surrendering to the Koma signature, black. This journey of colour was just one example of Koma’s development over the past three seasons.
If in the past we’ve been won over by Koma’s bold styles today we identified with David’s ‘strong and powerful female muse.’ Geometrical shapes jutted at the body but with a soft touch. There was delight in such a fusion.
Black and turquoise worked in tandem on dresses, David Koma Spring/Summer 2012
Fuschia pink peeked through David Koma tops and skirts as leather pinched in waists, Spring/summer 2012, London Fashion Week
There was nothing chintzy about David Koma’s devore creations, spring/summer 2012, London Fashion Week