The models at Rodarte’s Autumn/Winter 2012 show looked like they’d been caught in a dust storm and that’s exactly what the designers and make-up artist James Kaliardos wanted.
The inspiration for Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s collection was indeed the dusty plains of the Australian Outback and the hair and make-up echoed the clothes in their sun-baked, unkempt beauty.
To begin with, Kaliardos gave the models’ skin a much needed cleanse and moisturise – after four straight days of shows things were looking a little parched. Then he started creating a seriously suntanned look, explaining, “These girls are in the Australian Outback and they’ve been caught in a dust storm.” To achieve what he described as “Faye Dunaway cheeks”, Kaliardos built up layer upon layer of NARS’ famous Bronzer in Laguna.
Bronzer was used to create an extreme, sculpted look around the cheeks and sides of the face and this was continued up onto the eyelids and into the brows. A healthy dose of NARS’ Blush in Gaiety went from the crease of the lid towards the corners of the eyes, while another blush – Madly – was applied to the apples of the cheeks to complete the healthy, flushed outdoorsy look. A dab of white eyeshadow in the inner corners of the eyes opened them up and lips were painted in a matte pink shade of pencil.
There was a faintly ‘30s feel to the clothes and make-up and this was complemented by the models’ hair, which was styled into lightly tousled faux bobs. They were achieved by prepping hair with mousse, then curling one side and twisting under with pins to create the ‘short’ effect, then leaving the other side free. Gold stars adorned the shorter side, adding a whimsical, romantic touch to the vintage look that was typically Rodarte.