A modern take on retro beauty at Kenzo

By  October 09, 2012

There’s something quite awe-inspiring about the way Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have taken the reins at Kenzo, refusing to be intimidated by the legacy of the house and firmly putting their own stamp on things.

The Opening Ceremony duo took elements of Kenzo’s design DNA – the tiger symbol for example – and rebooted them for the 21st century in looks that were highly covetable, and the same went for the models’ make-up. A classic red-lip-cats-eye look felt fresh and edgy, thanks to some subtle tweaks.

MAC make-up artist Yadim described the inspiration for this look: “The Kenzo girl this season is more sophisticated than the last one: She is cool, sexy, gorgeous and rich… She found a rich boyfriend and is spending lots of money.”

Kenzo AW 12 catwalk beauty makeup

Kenzo AW12-13 backstage beautyThe black liquid liner that we saw at so many shows (that vampy cat’s eye never goes out of fashion) was squared off at the end into a more boxy shape that was graphic and modern rather than retro and flirty. It looked chic and added some edge to the models’ clean, polished skin. The trick to achieving this effect is to start the line at the middle point of the eye instead of the inner corner. This keeps it light and sporty rather instead of dramatic and vampy.

For the lip, choose a bright, glossy red lipstick and apply with a brush to achieve as precise a finish as possible. A little light sculpting just under the cheekbones to emphasise them is all that’s required to finish off this chic, minimalist effect. If you’re bored of your vampy, vintage-inspired eyes but can’t quite bear to be parted from your trusty liquid liner, this is a great way to update the look.